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Story Head

Congratulations on qualifying.
Psyching. I'm so psyched. Thanks.


Why'd you open with that big wipeout?
I just went over to Eliot's house and he had a bunch of the clips lined up and that was the first one he had...so we just kept it that way.

Now you need a bigger wipeout for the final?
Or I could make one.

Who's Eliot?
Eliot is from Maui. He makes kiteboard movies and started filmiing Ian Gentile in the last and I started hooking up with him whenever there's a good swell. He used to be a professional kiteboarder but he hurt his ACL real bad. So that's why his company is called ACL Productions. 

Clever. Is he an older guy?
Yeah, he's in his 30s.

Thirties is old to a 12-year-old like yourself.
I'm 20.

You got the babyface syndrome real hard.
Yeah.

Did you have a black eye in your section?
I don't think so. Maybe I had a little one.

Well, you should tell people you do. It looks tough.
Okay.

I've been writing about surfing for ten years, and I've never heard your name. How long have you been a pro surfer?
I think I started today. I've been signed with O'Neill for two years, but I wouldn't really consider myself that much of a pro until today. But making a Taylor Steele movie is the coolest thing.

Kelly Slater your section.
Yeah, I was psyched on that. Seems like last couple months I've been getting more attention. I mean, since this I got interviewed by Surfing Mag and Freesurf. I had a YouTube video on Surfer Mag, and now this...so, hopefully I move forward from here.

You been delivering pizzas on the side?
Not really. I do some dump runs for my dad. But mostly I just focus on my surfing. I don't work too much. I surf every day.

Is Maui a black hole for pro surfing?
For sure. So many good guys that coulda been successful, but they got stuck in the pavilion at Hokipa, but it seems like this last generation is breaking through with Ian Walsh, Hank Gaskell and Ola Eloagram. Now Dusty, Kai and Granger...all the boys.

Are those guys you're looking up to or hanging out with.
A little of both. I'm looking up to guys like Ian, cause he's taking the same route I wanna take. I'm not pysched on the WQS...I just wanna film and chase swells.

Well, this is a good start.
I know, this thing just opened so many doors.

Were you watching the site?
Every day. Just looking at all the comments and stuff. I liked Albee Layer's section, but he didn't make it. It's a bummer they don't let you do toying, cause he's got some crazy Jaws footage. Plus I gotta root for the Hawaii boys like Cheyne Magnussen and Flynn from Oahu.

So, if I had any complaint with your section, it didn't give a very good vibe of who you are?
Well, that's definitely in my plan for the final. And get some more turns, 'cause that's what the feedback said.

Well, it's good to have some places to improve, so when people see it on the DVD you'll still have some surprises.
Nice. For sure. I'm psyching. 

Psyching.
Psyching.


 

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http://digg.com/other_sports/Seriously_Saucy_Surfer
Posted: 05/28/2010
by Daniel Russo
Good to see an underground guy making the cut.
Posted: 05/27/2010
by rambo estrada